Chief Collection – A Distinctive Aesthetic
Completely restyled, the Chief collection embodies a subtle blend between the original watch and new, more modern aspirations; a reinterpretation of its original, distinctive design cues, in tune with the zeitgeist.
“We explored our archives to create models inspired by our rich heritage," emphasizes Patrik Hoffmann. "The cornerstone of Favre Leuba's relaunch is the Chief collection. The original piece that inspired this collection, the 1970 Chrono Valjoux 23 hand-wound, already featured a square-curved case that softened slightly at the four corners. With the Chief, our goal is to develop a complete collection that will incorporate a variety of movements of different sizes in the future, embodying the full potential of our renewal with elegance and innovation.”
The Chief Chronograph retains the distinctive design elements of the 70s, updated with a contemporary, sporty aesthetic.
The vintage-inspired ‘cushion’ case accentuates a modern sport-chic profile. At first glance, the watch seems unchanged, but a three-quarter view reveals the case’s subtle redesign: grooves on the flanks harmoniously follow the shape of the pushers. The lugs, borrowed from the historical predecessor, now exhibit more streamlined lines, while the ovoid shape on the outside of the case evokes compactness and fluidity.
The eye is naturally drawn to the magnificent sunburst dial, which is available in three color variations – blue, ice blue, and black. Crafted to the highest standards, it requires over 100 meticulous production steps. The impression of depth creates a striking contrast, enhanced by two raised sub-dials – a showcase for an exceptional level of finish. With the bi-compax counters positioned at 9 and 3 o’clock for precise minute and second readings, the Chief Chronograph perfectly embodies Favre Leuba's commitment to innovation and quality. Featuring a tachymeter scale on the inner flange to measure speed, a must on sports chronographs, this dial further stands out with refined details. A stylized hourglass in 3D – the emblem of Favre Leuba – at 6 o’clock adds a touch of sophistication.
The hands and applied indices, rhodium-plated and multifaceted, feature brushed and sandblasted finishes; they are coated with Super-LumiNova®, which both underlines the impression of visual depth and ensures optimum readability under low light conditions. The baton-shaped hour markers with triangular tips subtly echo the design of the hands, creating aesthetic unity.
The bezel-less 41mm case in 316L steel stands out with a circular brush finish on top and a satin-brushed finish on the four facets. Featuring an open back with a sapphire crystal, the case is water-resistant to a depth of to 100 meters. On the crown, Favre Leuba’s hallmark stylized hourglass
The integrated steel bracelet with H-shaped links, complemented by a deployant clasp for optimal comfort, follows through on the ergonomics of the case design. The rubber strap option allows for emphasizing the ‘sport’ in the watch’s sport-chic vibe.
Within the Chief Chronograph beats the traditional La Joux-Perret L113 chronograph movement, famed for its meticulous finishes, such as a blued column wheel, along with a 60-hour power reserve, ensuring exceptional performance in an exquisite setting. The column wheel is an essential component in the chronograph movement, serving as the command mechanism for the chronograph’s various functions (start/stop/reset). By allowing for precise orchestration of these actions, it ensures smooth operation and seamless handling, and keeps the chronograph’s promise of reliability and durability. Through the sapphire back, one can admire a movement with exceptional finishes; it evokes a ballet of decorations: Côtes de Genève stripes, blued screws, a circular-grained barrel bridge, and polished steel components. The carefully executed finishes reflect watchmaking expertise and the pursuit of perfection.
The Chief Chronograph will be available at a price of 4,500 CHF.
With a diameter of 40mm and a thickness of just 10.8mm, the Chief Date shares the refined design of the Chief Chronograph in a package that is slightly smaller and slimmer, yet just as delicately sculpted.
The Chief Date’s primary point of differentiation lies in its textured dial, featuring a stamped tapestry pattern of high-relief hourglasses. At 3 o’clock, a discreet date window adds practical functionality to the watch’s sophisticated design. The dials each have an offset sunray finish and come in vibrant hues of green, blue, and black, each capturing light in a distinctive, modern way.
The beautifully chiseled case elegantly combines satin-finished and polished surfaces, creating a subtle interplay of light. The interchangeable bracelet, seamlessly integrated into the case, offers exceptional comfort and underscores the watch’s sporty yet sophisticated character.
Powered by the La Joux-Perret G100 movement, the Chief Date impresses with a 68-hour power reserve. This movement, too, features superior finishes, including diamond-cut bevels, blued screws, and Côtes de Genève stripes. The oscillating weight, also decorated with Geneva stripes, adds an extra touch of luxury to the whole.
The Chief Date will be available at a price of 2,500 CHF, positioning this watch as an accessible option for watch enthusiasts seeking style, quality, and performance.
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