A Dial Born From Over 100 Steps

When the Chief Chronograph was revived in 2024, it quickly distinguished itself through its dial. Showcasing remarkable complexity and depth, each dial undergoes a process involving more than a hundred distinct stages. The result is a multi-dimensional canvas where multiple finishes interplay: a sunburst main dial, circular brushed sub-dials, and a ribbed contour pattern that adds structural and visual dynamism. Executing these layers demands absolute precision, not only in texture but in the uniform application of color across the dial’s undulating surfaces.

That complexity narrows the field when it comes to choosing colors. Only a few can withstand the process and still emerge with clarity, brilliance, and balance. Following the success of the original blue, black, and ice blue variants, British Racing Green and Dune now join the collection; hues carefully tested and perfected to meet Favre Leuba’s uncompromising standards.

The Chief Chronograph British Racing Green

The Chief Chronograph British Racing Green presents a bold, spirited take on a legendary color. Born in 1903 with Britain’s racing pioneers, it became the shade of legends: of roaring engines, glistening chrome, and champions who raced not for comfort, but for glory. Favre Leuba now brings that storied hue to the adventurer’s wrist, capturing its heritage while reimagining it for modern exploration.

The rich green hue shifts with every movement — forest-bright in sunlight, darker and moodier under overcast skies. A sunray finish enhances its vibrance, while contrasting tones frame the edges and sub-dials, adding balance and structure. Mechanical and purposeful, this bold new version adapts the green of racing legends for an adventurer’s wrist.

The Chief Chronograph Dune

The Chief Chronograph Dune offers a more understated elegance. Its warm, sandy hue sits between beige and soft gold, layered over a brushed and sunray-finished dial. Refined, contrasting tones, along with the lush rose gold–hued hands and markers, create a sense of balance and harmony across the dial’s architectural layout — subtle, yet undeniably distinctive.

Streamlined Proportions, Elevated Wearability

Both variants feature the Chief’s signature 41mm cushion-shaped case in stainless steel, with brushed and polished finishes for a balanced look. At 14mm thick, it offers excellent wearability, while the case is water-resistant to 10 ATM.

Each piece is offered with an integrated, two-link, steel bracelet featuring brushed and polished finishes, and an additional FKM rubber strap — delivering comfort, versatility, and a seamless aesthetic.

Powered by Precision

Inside the case, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, is the FLC02 automatic chronograph movement, developed in close partnership with La Joux-Perret. This high-performance caliber features a thermally blued column wheel, ensuring precise chronograph engagement. A column wheel offers greater precision and accuracy than a cam-actuated mechanism, and in the Chief Chronograph watches, this component undergoes an intricate bluing process that also enhances its hardness. This meticulous procedure requires absolute precision — even the slightest deviation means starting over from the beginning.

The dial presents a horizontal bi-compax arrangement of the sub-dials, with a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock and running seconds at nine. This layout not only enables an at-a-glance reading of elapsed minutes and seconds, but also contributes to a cleaner, more balanced, and highly legible display.

The movement features beautiful Geneva stripes, perlage, and thermally blued screws on the main caliber. It is topped by a skeletonized rotor adorned with a spiral-brushed colimaçonnage and sunburst soleillage.